Vienna – Opera and vineyards
(For more photos from Vienna, scroll through the slide show at the bottom of this post)
I can’t believe I almost didn’t go to Vienna. When I planned my trip, I was originally going to visit Salzburg and then continue on to Munich. When I realized I had an extra travel day on my rail pass, I added it to the itinerary. I’m so, so glad I did.
I didn’t think Vienna would be able to wow me after Prague, but I went for a walk on my first night in the city and was mesmerized by the way the buildings looked lit up. The architecture almost has a Grecian style to it. Buildings like the Hofburg Palace and the State Opera emanate a sense of wealth and prestige. It made me feel like I was in a different era.
I actually explored much of Vienna with a friend. I met a girl from Chicago back in Brussels whose been travelling Europe on a very similar schedule. We also met up in Amsterdam and Prague, but in Vienna we were actually staying in the same hostel. There’s no free walking tour in Vienna, so we set off on our own with a self guided map to take in some of the major sites, including Hofburg Palace, Parliament, St. Stephan’s Cathedral and the Sigmund Freud Museum.
The rain finally caught up with me in Vienna, but I can’t complain after all the sun I’ve had. I toured Schonbrunn Palace, the Habsburg’s summer residence, on a gray, drizzly morning. I still found the royal gardens to be charming because of the fall colours. I actually liked them better than the gardens at Versailles in Paris.
Normally, I leave a city in the morning because I hate arriving in a new place after dark, but I knew the sun was going to come out on my scheduled travel day from Vienna to Salzburg. There was a vineyard I had read about just outside the city, so I decided to store my mammoth backpack at the hostel after checking out and caught a tram to the old Viennese wine village of Nussdorf.
I had no idea what I would find when I got off the tram. The guide had said to get off at the last stop and walk up the hill. I didn’t have a map for this part of Vienna, so that’s what I did. At first I was just in a very pretty residential area, but then this massive hillside popped up and I knew I had to get to the top.
It was a landscape straight out of a movie: Row after row of grape vines, little farm houses scattered across the hillside, the autumn leaves changing colour, and stretching below it all, the Danube river and the city of Vienna. I stayed up there for hours just wandering around. It was one of those ‘pinch me’ moments you get when you realize you’re getting to see something truly amazing.
A night at the Opera
I had a second ‘pinch me’ moment in Vienna. I was totally shocked when I arrived at my hostel and saw a sign explaining you could get standing room tickets to the Vienna State Opera for…brace yourself… four euros. FOUR EUROS. You can’t even buy sachertorte in Vienna for four euros!
I couldn’t have been more excited, which is surprising, as I had never even seen an opera from start to finish. But stepping into the Vienna State Opera for a Friday night performance of La Fanciulla Del West (The Girl of the West) was an experience in itself. Women wore glittering, floor length gowns with choker necklaces that sparkled from across the room. Men bought bottles of wine from the bar and dined on fancy, finger-sized sandwiches.
And what’s even more amazing is how good our spots were. My friend and I got dressed up in our backpacking best and stood in line two hours before the start of the show. We snagged tickets for the lower standing area, which is dead centre, at stage level. We were a little squished and sweaty for the first act, but some people left at intermission, giving us more elbow room.
And there are even little screens that provide subtitles! I had read the Wikipedia synopsis for La Fanciulla Del West before the show, but having the subtitles made it so much easier to follow the plot.
I know nothing about Opera, but we were told multiple times that the three leads, Jonas Kaufmann, Nina Stemme and Tomasz Konieczny, are among the best in their field. After watching them perform, I can believe it.
The entire opera is done without microphones, but you can hear every lyric no matter where you are in the theatre. And then there are those notes that shouldn’t even be possible for a human to hit. The fact that I was able to see a show of that calibre, in one of the world’s most renowned opera houses was definitely a trip highlight for me.
THE VIENNA STATE OPERA: Arrive at the side entrance at least 90 minutes before the start of the show to purchase standing room tickets for that night’s performance. Bring a scarf to mark your spot once you get in, then explore the prestige of this stunning building.
NUSSDORF: Viennese suburb featuring half a dozen vineyards. Take Tram D all the way to the end (stop name Beethovengang). Then climb up and up!
NEXT STOP: Salzburg, Austria